Madecassoside Anti-Inflammatory Properties Demonstrated By Roche

Madecassoside extracted from the Centella asiatica plant is a patented raw material that has cosmetic applications in products formulated to address sensitive skin and anti-aging, according to Roche Consumer Health Serdex Division Marketing and Sales Director Jean-Christophe Lepetit.

Extracts from the plant, found in pantropic regions and traditionally used medicinally for wound healing, demonstrated anti-inflammatory benefits in both in vitro and in vivo testing conducted by Serdex. The Roche division specializes in developing and manufacturing vegetal extracts for use by the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries.

Serdex presented its latest research on madecassoside at the HBA PCITX Advanced Technical Conference in New York City April 13-14.

The ingredient is a relatively new product for the company. Serdex is the first company in the world to isolate and identify a new chemical structure of madecassoside, Lepetit said.

While a handful of cosmetic manufacturers are using the Serdex ingredient in Europe, U.S. manufacturers have yet to incorporate it into cosmetic formulations. The extract, however, does meet the toxicology requirements for the U.S., as well as for the European and Japanese markets, Lepetit said.

The highly purified ingredient is a white, odorless powder that is fully soluble in water and can be heated for formulation, the exec added, pointing out it is stable and fairly easy to work with.

Madecassoside comprises two separate isomers, madecassoside and the newly identified terminoloside. It works to modulate inflammation while preserving cell function and reconstructing the extracellular matrix, according to the company.

In vitro testing of madecassoside on keratinocytes showed it to have a double modulator effect by decreasing the inflammatory agents released and decreasing cells' sensitivity to inflammation, Serdex reported.

Test results demonstrated a dose-dependent decrease of pro-inflammatory ligands synthesis by keratinocytes as a result of exposure to madecassoside. At the same time, the ingredient works to protect cells from inflammatory stress by increasing cells' natural protection, according to the firm.

In previous research conducted by LVMH's Christian Dior, madecassoside also was shown in vitro to increase the release of collagens I and III, Lepetit added.

To support its in vitro research results, Serdex conducted a clinical in vivo study on 16 psoriasis patients with severe inflammatory skin.

After a five-week treatment with an oil and water emulsion containing 2% madecassoside, a noticeable improvement was demonstrated on the scaly patches of patients' skin, Serdex reported. The results of the study suggest madecassoside may have applications to treat skin conditions such as rosacea, Lepetit noted.

In separate research on high function natural ingredients presented during the symposium, Kemin Foods Technical Services Manager Richard Roberts, PhD, said lutein offers a natural approach to maintaining healthy and youthful looking skin due to its protective properties.

Lutein, which is found in green leafy vegetables like broccoli, spinach and kale, works in plants to protect chlorophyll from the effects of light. The ingredient, known by the INCI name xanthophylls, has two repositories in the body, the eyes and skin, according to Roberts.

In the skin, lutein exhibits antioxidant properties and can inhibit the formation of reactive oxygen species, which can induce free radicals in skin when light passes in, he explained.

The ingredient also can quench triplet states of photosensitizers and singlet oxygen, both of which can induce free radicals in the skin, he added. Lutein has a third function in the body as well - filtering blue light wavelengths, another free radical producer. As a result of its filtering properties, lutein can be used topically on the skin to protect against free radical damage, Roberts stated.